How we see the Uzbeks and how the Uzbeks see themselves (obviously) differ. I am always curious how local artists and artisans express what they see, feel, or imagine through their works of art. On the other hand, I record my experiences with straightforward images through the lens of a camera.
We are all familiar with the expression, “A picture is worth a thousand words.” Variations of this saying include, “The drawing shows me at one glance what might be spread over ten pages in a book (Ivan Turgenev, a Russian writer) and “A good sketch is better than a long speech” (sometimes attributed to Napoleon Bonaparte). So, let the pictures do (most of) the talking through Uzbek artists’ and artisans’ eyes and hands about how they see themselves. I have added further information and annotations to fill the gaps the pictures cannot convey.
The German geographer and traveller Ferdinand von Richthofen first used the term “Silk Road” in 1877 to describe the trade route between Europe and East Asia. The term refers to a network of routes used by traders from around 130 BC (Han Dynasty) until AD 1453 (when the Ottoman Empire closed off trade with the West). The trade route passes through Uzbekistan and extends over approximately 6,500 kilometres.
Religious practices were suppressed during the Soviet Union era. After Uzbekistan became independent in 1991, the first President, Islam Karimov, maintained strict control over religion. The second President, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, continued state regulation of Islamic practices; for example, an Uzbek imam was reported sacked after he urged the president to allow the wearing of hijabs or beards. These commonly seen practices in Arabic countries were declared alien cultures and practices. There have been numerous reports that the police forcibly shaved men who chose to wear beards. Hence, today, it is unlikely that visitors will see men wearing beards on the streets in Uzbekistan. Neither can they see women wearing hijabs.
Legislation on gender equality has yet to appear in Uzbekistan. Women’s rights are changing, but not fast enough. I have noted figurines in Uzbekistan consistently showing an exaggerated difference in height. Is this observation a reflection of ingrained gender inequality in Uzbekistan, or is it my imagination?
Uzbekistan has one of the highest levels of tea consumption per capita in the world – 2.65 kg per capita annually. For comparison, the Japanese consume only 680 grams. It is the main drink in the country, and green tea (kuk-choy) is more popular than black tea (kora-choy). The chai khana (tea house), an institution in Uzbekistan, is where people gather to drink tea, talk with friends, and relax.
Uzbek breads are fascinating. There is a large variety, mostly flatbreads. One of the best known is called “non” or several variations of it (related to the Indian “naan”) and has the form of a disk with a thin central portion, usually docked with decorative stamps.
Uzbekistan produces more watermelons than it can consume domestically, exporting 81,800 tonnes to neighbouring countries. Almost all the exports went to the Eurasian Economic Union (EEU), with the bulk going to member states Kazakhstan and Russia. In recent years, there has been an increasing appetite for pomegranate. Recently, the Ministry of Agriculture announced an ambitious plan to expand this crop’s production in the country’s southern region.
Vince
Dr Vincent Chong is a retired Professor of Radiology at Yong Loo Lin School of Medicine, National University of Singapore.
