Itchan Kala (inner fortress of Khiva) in western Uzbekistan is a World Heritage Site. Spanning two millennia of history, it was the last caravan resting place before crossing the desert from Uzbekistan into Persia. Today, we can still see old monuments and well-preserved examples of the Islamic architecture of Central Asia. One of the outstanding structures we visited was the Djuma (Friday) Mosque.
The mosque was first documented in the 10th century. It was rebuilt in 1788 atop the ruins of an older mosque in the exact location. The building is a single-story structure supported by 212 wooden columns in 17 rows. The prayer hall is roughly rectangular, measuring 55 x 46 meters.
There are no windows to the outside world apart from two light wells and the small entrances on four sides of the hall, creating a dim and secluded atmosphere. A 52-metre-high minaret faces one of the main streets from the northern facade.
I was particularly interested in the mosque pillars. Most were erected in the 18th century, but some could be dated back to 1316 and 1510. They represent materials reused from various constructions elsewhere over the centuries.
The prayer hall’s forest of pillars stands in the semi-darkness. Some are plain, while others are adorned with carving patterns, expressing the art of the local artisans. I looked closely at their decorative treatments and how wood changed over time.
Wabi-sabi refers to an awareness of the transient nature of earthly things and a corresponding pleasure in the things that bear the mark of this impermanence. It is the Japanese philosophy of finding beauty within imperfection and accepting the transient nature of being, in this case, the appearance of timber columns. In other words, wabi-sabi celebrates the appreciation of simplicity, imperfection, and the natural flow of life.
Looking at the pillars of the Djuma mosque, I sense the characteristics of wabi-sabi aesthetics. What are they? They are different from Western perceptions of beauty—asymmetry, roughness, simplicity, austerity, modesty, intimacy, and appreciation of the forces of nature on objects we see. Things do become more engaging, intriguing, and beautiful as they age (and acquire a new charm).
I enjoyed my time with the pillars of the Djuma mosque. I was grateful to see the handiwork of artisans from a bygone era. Furthermore, I could see and feel the forces of nature on timber (and me). These are simple and joyous moments—in line with the spirit of wabi-sabi.
Vince
Dr Vincent Chong is a retired Professor of Radiology at Yong Loo Lin School of Medicine, National University of Singapore.
