Twenty eight years ago, I threw myself into the deep end of the Chinese Language learning pool. One of the first things newcomers to the Chinese scene should learn is the drinking culture (酒文化). A working knowledge of the drinking culture is always helpful if you attend business meetings or banquets in China.
Ask any Westerner or English-educated locals to name as many alcoholic drinks (spirits) as they can. They will probably mention some combinations from this short list: brandy, cognac, whiskey, vodka, rum, gin, tequila, white wine, red wine, champagne, Kahlua, Bailey’s, martini, and so on. It is unlikely you will hear Baijiu (白酒) or Maotai (茅台酒). And yet, Baijiu is the most popular spirit in the world. In 2018, the Chinese consumed 10.8 billion litres of Baijiu, far exceeding the more popular Western drinks.
Baijiu means “white or clear liquor.” It is a strong (typically between 35% and 60% alcohol by volume) drink. Baijiu comes from fermented sorghum, although other grains may be used, such as rice, wheat, barley, millet, or Job’s tears (Chinese: 薏苡 yìyǐ).
The history of Baijiu goes a long way back to the misty past. The distillation of Baijiu in significant quantities occurred sometime in the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). Baijiu was cheap and potent, predominantly a drink of the poor. It did not appear at the banquets, business luncheons, or dinners until much later.
The Civil War changed the political landscape and the drinking scene in China. In January 1935, during the legendary Long March, the Chinese Communist Party (CCP), while temporarily resting in Zunyi (see the map above), elected Mao Zedong as their leader. In the ensuing battle with the Nationalists, the CCP won the decisive Battle of Chishui River (赤水战役) nearby. The Red Army generals and foot soldiers found the local Baijiu (in Maotai Village) delightful. The drink didn’t just numb pain and stave off cold but could also sterilise wounds and soothe their blistered aching feet.
After the CCP established New China in 1949, the government nationalised all the local baijiu distilleries in Maotai Village. In 1951, premier Zhou Enlai created a standard for state banquets (Huaiyang cuisine (淮揚菜) and named Maotai the national drink. Today (like champagne), only the Baijiu produced by the Kweichow Moutai Co, Ltd can be called Maotai.
In Part II, I’ll relate my personal drinking experience in China.
Vince
Dr Vincent Chong is a retired Professor of Radiology at Yong Loo Lin School of Medicine, National University of Singapore.
