An early breakfast in the hotel fortified us for our visit to Borobudur, the highlight of our tour.
Checklist : bring rain gear, suntan lotion, plenty of water, for ladies: a sarong.
Borobudur
Built in the 8th century during the Buddhist Sailendra Dynasty, it is the largest Buddhist temple complex in the world. We had to travel by car in a northwesterly direction for about 2-3 hours, passing paddy fields interspersed with villages.
The attap houses, the coconut trees, the sawah-sawah ( green, verdant paddy fields) the scarecrows, the distant volcanoes garlanded by wispy clouds all combined to form an indelible image of rural beauty in my mind’s eye.
The best light to see Borobudur in is either at sunrise or sunset, both of which eluded us. For the sunrise tour it entails staying on-site in the Manohara or other smaller dwellings as you will need to leave around 430am with a torchlight and perhaps a walking stick. For the sunset you need to stay beyond the closing time of the park ( at 5pm ), which means another night in the Manohara ( hotel is within the grounds of Borobudur complex )
Otherwise, you will be like us, sandwiched among the crush of Mr. Average Tourist.
Guide
To understand the story of Borobudur better we engaged an English -speaking guide, Mr. Agos, for a princely sum of Rp 100,000, sounds like a lot of dough, but converted, is about SGD $11 ! Mr. Agos may be a polytheistic native from antiquity : his approach to the Borobudur story has a philosophical, secular air. But first, we clicked away with our phones, i-pads on the threshold for posterity.
Architecture of Borobudur
It is vast, and dwarfs Prabanan by comparison, and over 130 metres tall . Constructed wholly from dark grey, andesite (volcanic) stone, which the locals called Batu candi.
In structure it is built like a pyramid with a square base. There are altogether 10 levels. You should admire it in its entirety from afar to get the big picture, then examine it layer by layer, which is where the guide comes in.
The 6 lower levels are in square platforms, carrying some 2672 panels or murals and 504 Buddha statues.
The Buddha statues on different levels assume different hand postures, with different significance and meanings . The six postures signify : contact with earth ; giving and helping; meditation; fearlessness; teaching and learning ; and turning the wheel of Dharma.
As our guide said, to study all, takes years. It is akin to a complete education from kindergarten, primary, secondary culminating in university.
The base or foot of the monument teaches the Laws of the Karma, subsequent levels dealt with Buddha’s past lives , his birth, his life as a prince, forsaking his birthright and leaving home, searching for the way out of suffering, and finally, enlightenment.
Every level should be explored from the east entrance and proceed in a clockwise manner.
After the 6th level came three levels of circular terraces which contained no panels but stupas each with a buddha within. The final level, that of the grand stupa, represents the Highest Truth or Nirvana. It is sealed and not fenestrated.
The upper levels afford a view towards the Kedu plains around Borobudur, and the two nearest volcanoes, Merapi to the right and Merbabu to the left. There are many picturesque lookout points.
Gratitude
As I descended the steep steps, I am thankful : to Siddartha Gautama who understood through meditation, the true cause of suffering, and the path out of suffering ; to those preceding me who were inspired by Buddha’s teachings, and built this monument as an educational tool for generations to come ; to Stamford Raffles who initiated the un-earthing of Borobudur from the jungles and the volcanic ashes ; to UNESCO for the recognition of the significance of the find and its subsequent restoration and maintenance.
You can spend an hour here, or you can spend half a lifetime studying the messages carved in volcanic stone.
We were finally enlightened by spiritual fulfillment.
(This trip was undertaken in 2015)
Dr Alan Ho Chok Chan is a Paediatrician in private Family Practice. He also spends time golfing, swimming, playing tennis, wine tasting, playing his guitar and singing. He is a bibliophile and reads voraciously.
